Begin with these steps before applying any makeup.
Analyze the type and condition of the skin. This will determine the combination of skincare and makeup formulas to use. The condition of your skin changes each day, so make an assessment each morning.
Decide which products will improve the skin's current condition. That includes determining what weight moisturizer(s) are appropriate and whether an oil-controlling gel, a skin-soothing lotion, or a combination of skincare products is needed. Understanding how various ingredients work and the range of options available to you is important.
Choose the right foundation formula for the skin type and condition. Options include stick foundation, lightweight tinted moisturizer, denser tinted balm, fuller-coverage liquid foundation, powder, and oil-free formulas.
Select the correct foundation shade for the skin tone. It is important to select the foundation shade first.
Select an under-eye concealer one to two tones lighter than the foundation, and determine if a corrector is needed.
Select the perfect shades of powder to ensure that makeup stays fresh looking and lasts for hours, Choose a lighter powder to set concealer and that will double as an eye primer, and a deeper shade that works with the foundation tone. Test the colour of the powder on the skin after applying foundation.
Monday, August 17, 2009
Thursday, August 13, 2009
Skincare Glossary
There are many terms and ingredients associated with skincare products. What follows is only a basic list. While there are no miracles when it comes to the skin, a clear understanding of how ingredients function will help you select the right skincare products.
ALPHA HYDROXY ACIDS (AHAS) are naturally occurring acids found in fruits and milk, used topically to reduce the appearance of fine lines. AHAs help speed up the skin's natural exfoliation process, helping it shed dead skin cells. They can improve the texture of skin, unclog pores, and help prevent breakouts. Glycolic acid is one of the commonly used AHAs. Do not use products containing salicylic acid (a beta hydroxy acid), which is too harsh for general exfoliation, as they are intended for use only on problem skin areas.
ANTI-AGING: The best anti-aging formula is a healthy lifestyle. Nothing will stop the clock. Poor diet, excessive drinking, smoking, lack of exercise, and sunburn all accelerate the effects of aging on the skin.
ANTIOXIDANTS help protect the skin from damage caused by free radicals, molecules with an unpaired electron. They cause oxidation that can damage cellular material. Vitamins A, C, and E, beta-carotene, green tea, and grape seed extract are all highly effective antioxidants.
BALMS are super-rich moisturizers that target dry patches of skin on face, hands, feet, and body. Look for ingredients such as avocado extract or shea butter. For a subtle glow, I warm some in my hands and pt on the cheeks after applying makeup.
BASE is a term that generally refers to a product applied under foundation to smooth and protect the skin. Bases often contain a mix of vitamins, antioxidants, and anti-aging ingredients. Previous generations referred to foundation colour as base.
BRIGHTENER: Makeup products sometimes contain light-diffusing particles and/or ingredients that inhibit oxidation. Both of these are referred to as brighteners.
COLLAGEN is a fibrous protein found in skin. When collagen levels in the skin are high, the skin appears firm. Levels of collagen decline as we age. As the support proveded by the collagen is reduced, wrinkles begin to form. Injections temporarily replace lost collagen. The topical application of peptides may have a similar effect.
EMOLLIENTS (squalane, avocado oil, wheat germ oil, glycerin, lanolin, petroleum, shea butter, and others) hold moisture in the skin and make the skin soft and supple.
EXFOLIATORS are designed to help slough off dead skin cells. Look for scrubs designed for the face.
FIXERS are sprays that set makeup. Makeup is also typically set with powders.
GREEN TEA EXTRACT (Camellia sinensis) is a powerful antioxidant found in many anti-aging products that may slow down photo aging.
HUMECTANTS (glycerin, algae extract, sodium hyaluronate, urea, lactic acid, panthenol and others) absorb water from the air and help the skin retain moisture.
HYALURONIC ACID (sodium hyaluronate) is a fluid that surrounds the joints and is found in skin tissue. Aging slows the production of this acid, so it is often supplemented as an anti-aging treatment. It is used as filler for wrinkles (injection) and can be applied topically or taken in pill form. It is often added to moisturizer and works to hydrate skin.
OXIDANTS are unstable molecules caused by pollution, smoke, ultraviolet light, toxins, and other environment factors. Also known as free radicals, they attack and damage the skin, leading to premature aging.
PEPTIDES are two or more amino acids bonded together, forming a linear molecule. The molecules can transfer biologiclly active agents (green tea, vitamin E, copper) to cells, renewing them. Algae peptiees are used in some firming formulations. Copper peptides have been used for years to aid in wound healing. Labels might indicate that a product contains pentapeptides (five peptides) or polypeptides (many peptides).
PHOTO AGING is sun damage.
RETINOIDS (Retin-A, retinal, Renova) are powerful vitamin A derivatives used to fight acne and help build collagen to reverse visible signs of aging. The drug is effective in reducing fine lines around the eyes and mouth, not deep wrinkles. Inflammation and peeling are common side effects from use, which can last from two weeks to months. Because the drug makes skin more sensitive to the sun, use of a sunscreen is essential. Pregnant women and those planning a pregnancy should avoid this drug, since it is not known how much Retin-A is absorbed through the skin, and high doses of vitamin A can cause birth defects. Natural sources of retinoids include yams, tomatoes, fish-liver oils, melon, squash, and leafy green vegetables.
SERUMS are concentrated, corrective skin treatments that are packed with highly effective active ingredients that address specific skin concerns like dullness and uneven skin tone. Ingredients commonly found in serums include vitamin C, green tea extract, and white birch extract. For best results, serums should be applied after cleansing, before moisturizer.
SPF (sun protection factor) measure the degree of protection a product provides against the sun's UVB rays. The formula used divides the minutes it takes to burn wearing a thick application of the product by the minutes the same person takes to burn without any sunscreen. There is no current rating system for UVA protection.
SQUALENE (natural, unsaturated) is derived from shark-liver oil. It is very emollient and has some germicidal benefits.
TYROSINASE INHIBITORS (kojic acid, hydroquinone) all prevent browning or age spots on the skin. Licorice (glycyrrhiza glabrd) has been used for centuries to lighten and brighten skin.
VITAMIN B3 (niacinamide) is a water soluble vitamin found in yeast, eggs, liver, and vegetables that helps increase the amount of fatty acids in the skin, promoting exfoliation and firmness.
VITAMIN C (ascorbic acid) is an antioxidant that can reduce the appearance of hyperpigmentation and create a more even skin tone. It protects the skin from atmospheric pollution and from ultraviolet light. Vitamin C also helps convert inactivated vitamin E back to the active, antioxidant form of vitamin E. Vitamin C is involved in the formation of elastin and plays a role in converting proline, and amino acid, into collagen. Vitamin C increases collagen manufacture, reducing the appearance of wrinkles. The production of malanin is an oxidative process that causes pigmentation. As an antioxidant, vitamin C counteracts the oxidative process. High doses of vitamin C reduce the pigmentaiton of scars and make them less noticeable. Vitamin C is found in fresh fruits and vegetables.
VITAMIN E (tocopherol) provides antioxidant protection. All the cells in the body contain fatty acids that need protection against oxidation, which causes disease and symptoms of aging. Vitamin E protects the fatty acids (oils) against oxidation and rancidity. Vitamin E has been shown to act as a mild sunscreen, with a sun protection factor (SPF) of 3.
VITAMIN K helps to reduce ruddiness and promotes faster healing of bruising, swelling, and skin irritation.
ALPHA HYDROXY ACIDS (AHAS) are naturally occurring acids found in fruits and milk, used topically to reduce the appearance of fine lines. AHAs help speed up the skin's natural exfoliation process, helping it shed dead skin cells. They can improve the texture of skin, unclog pores, and help prevent breakouts. Glycolic acid is one of the commonly used AHAs. Do not use products containing salicylic acid (a beta hydroxy acid), which is too harsh for general exfoliation, as they are intended for use only on problem skin areas.
ANTI-AGING: The best anti-aging formula is a healthy lifestyle. Nothing will stop the clock. Poor diet, excessive drinking, smoking, lack of exercise, and sunburn all accelerate the effects of aging on the skin.
ANTIOXIDANTS help protect the skin from damage caused by free radicals, molecules with an unpaired electron. They cause oxidation that can damage cellular material. Vitamins A, C, and E, beta-carotene, green tea, and grape seed extract are all highly effective antioxidants.
BALMS are super-rich moisturizers that target dry patches of skin on face, hands, feet, and body. Look for ingredients such as avocado extract or shea butter. For a subtle glow, I warm some in my hands and pt on the cheeks after applying makeup.
BASE is a term that generally refers to a product applied under foundation to smooth and protect the skin. Bases often contain a mix of vitamins, antioxidants, and anti-aging ingredients. Previous generations referred to foundation colour as base.
BRIGHTENER: Makeup products sometimes contain light-diffusing particles and/or ingredients that inhibit oxidation. Both of these are referred to as brighteners.
COLLAGEN is a fibrous protein found in skin. When collagen levels in the skin are high, the skin appears firm. Levels of collagen decline as we age. As the support proveded by the collagen is reduced, wrinkles begin to form. Injections temporarily replace lost collagen. The topical application of peptides may have a similar effect.
EMOLLIENTS (squalane, avocado oil, wheat germ oil, glycerin, lanolin, petroleum, shea butter, and others) hold moisture in the skin and make the skin soft and supple.
EXFOLIATORS are designed to help slough off dead skin cells. Look for scrubs designed for the face.
FIXERS are sprays that set makeup. Makeup is also typically set with powders.
GREEN TEA EXTRACT (Camellia sinensis) is a powerful antioxidant found in many anti-aging products that may slow down photo aging.
HUMECTANTS (glycerin, algae extract, sodium hyaluronate, urea, lactic acid, panthenol and others) absorb water from the air and help the skin retain moisture.
HYALURONIC ACID (sodium hyaluronate) is a fluid that surrounds the joints and is found in skin tissue. Aging slows the production of this acid, so it is often supplemented as an anti-aging treatment. It is used as filler for wrinkles (injection) and can be applied topically or taken in pill form. It is often added to moisturizer and works to hydrate skin.
OXIDANTS are unstable molecules caused by pollution, smoke, ultraviolet light, toxins, and other environment factors. Also known as free radicals, they attack and damage the skin, leading to premature aging.
PEPTIDES are two or more amino acids bonded together, forming a linear molecule. The molecules can transfer biologiclly active agents (green tea, vitamin E, copper) to cells, renewing them. Algae peptiees are used in some firming formulations. Copper peptides have been used for years to aid in wound healing. Labels might indicate that a product contains pentapeptides (five peptides) or polypeptides (many peptides).
PHOTO AGING is sun damage.
RETINOIDS (Retin-A, retinal, Renova) are powerful vitamin A derivatives used to fight acne and help build collagen to reverse visible signs of aging. The drug is effective in reducing fine lines around the eyes and mouth, not deep wrinkles. Inflammation and peeling are common side effects from use, which can last from two weeks to months. Because the drug makes skin more sensitive to the sun, use of a sunscreen is essential. Pregnant women and those planning a pregnancy should avoid this drug, since it is not known how much Retin-A is absorbed through the skin, and high doses of vitamin A can cause birth defects. Natural sources of retinoids include yams, tomatoes, fish-liver oils, melon, squash, and leafy green vegetables.
SERUMS are concentrated, corrective skin treatments that are packed with highly effective active ingredients that address specific skin concerns like dullness and uneven skin tone. Ingredients commonly found in serums include vitamin C, green tea extract, and white birch extract. For best results, serums should be applied after cleansing, before moisturizer.
SPF (sun protection factor) measure the degree of protection a product provides against the sun's UVB rays. The formula used divides the minutes it takes to burn wearing a thick application of the product by the minutes the same person takes to burn without any sunscreen. There is no current rating system for UVA protection.
SQUALENE (natural, unsaturated) is derived from shark-liver oil. It is very emollient and has some germicidal benefits.
TYROSINASE INHIBITORS (kojic acid, hydroquinone) all prevent browning or age spots on the skin. Licorice (glycyrrhiza glabrd) has been used for centuries to lighten and brighten skin.
VITAMIN B3 (niacinamide) is a water soluble vitamin found in yeast, eggs, liver, and vegetables that helps increase the amount of fatty acids in the skin, promoting exfoliation and firmness.
VITAMIN C (ascorbic acid) is an antioxidant that can reduce the appearance of hyperpigmentation and create a more even skin tone. It protects the skin from atmospheric pollution and from ultraviolet light. Vitamin C also helps convert inactivated vitamin E back to the active, antioxidant form of vitamin E. Vitamin C is involved in the formation of elastin and plays a role in converting proline, and amino acid, into collagen. Vitamin C increases collagen manufacture, reducing the appearance of wrinkles. The production of malanin is an oxidative process that causes pigmentation. As an antioxidant, vitamin C counteracts the oxidative process. High doses of vitamin C reduce the pigmentaiton of scars and make them less noticeable. Vitamin C is found in fresh fruits and vegetables.
VITAMIN E (tocopherol) provides antioxidant protection. All the cells in the body contain fatty acids that need protection against oxidation, which causes disease and symptoms of aging. Vitamin E protects the fatty acids (oils) against oxidation and rancidity. Vitamin E has been shown to act as a mild sunscreen, with a sun protection factor (SPF) of 3.
VITAMIN K helps to reduce ruddiness and promotes faster healing of bruising, swelling, and skin irritation.
Wednesday, August 12, 2009
Tip
Using Your Fingers
Nothing beats the warmth of the fingers to blend makeup into the skin. Lipstick can be blotted onto the lips to create a stain effect. Face cream, balm, or oil rubbed between both palms and then gently pressed onto cheeks adds moisture and a youthful glow to the face. I use my hands to warm concealers, blend foundation, and mix lip shades together. I also use my hands to work makeup into the face so that the makeup feels like a part of the skin and not like a mask.
Nothing beats the warmth of the fingers to blend makeup into the skin. Lipstick can be blotted onto the lips to create a stain effect. Face cream, balm, or oil rubbed between both palms and then gently pressed onto cheeks adds moisture and a youthful glow to the face. I use my hands to warm concealers, blend foundation, and mix lip shades together. I also use my hands to work makeup into the face so that the makeup feels like a part of the skin and not like a mask.
Tuesday, August 11, 2009
Care & Maintenance of Tools & Makeup
Your makeup is only as good as the tools you use to apply it. Therefore, your tools must always be in the their best working condition. That means clean brushes, puffs, and sponges; sharpened tweezers; makeup containers that are in perfect shape; and makeup that's not too old to use safely.
Brush Care
A good set of brushes will last several years if it is well cared for. This involves storing the brushes properly (either in a neat brush roll that has individual slots for each brush or upright in a pencil cup) and keeping them clean. To clean brushes, take a drop of brush cleaner or very gentle soap in your palm, wet the brush, and swirl the bristles around on your palm until they are covered in soap. (I love using baby shampoo.) Rinse thoroughly until all soap residue is gone. Do not immerse the brush head in water, because the hair is glued to the base, and even the most expensive brushes will come apart. Squeeze out excess moisture with a clean towel, reshape the brush head, and let it dry with the bristles hanging off the edge of a counter so the bristles dry into the perfect shape. Brushes can become mildewed if they rest on a towel while drying.
Clean all your brushes every month. For a quick cleaning in between washings, use a spray brush cleaner. Spritz it onto the bristles, and swipe them back and forth on a tissue until all
product residues are removed from the brush.
TIP
Clean the sides of messy compacts with a cotton swab to keep them looking fresh.
Sponge Care
High-quality sponges can be washed many times before they need to be discarded. Alternatively, you can buy disposable synthetic sponge wedges at the drugstore that work well and are inexpensive. You can wash and reuse them only a few times before you throw them out.
Powder Puff Care
While drugstores sell disposable powder puffs, it's worth investing in a better-quality one. Hand wash the puff using the same liquid soap you use for your brushes, or toss it into your next load of laundry or on the top rack of the dishwasher.
Tweezer Care
When tweezers get dull - which happens with repeated use - they are no longer as effective at grabbing on to and removing small hairs. You can take them to a knife shop for sharpening. Some of the better brands, such as Tweezerman, come with a lifetime guarantee that includes free sharpening whenever necessary.
Eyelash Curler Care
The rubber pads that line the inside of an eyelash curler are there to protect the lashes, so when the pads start to wear out or break apart, they must be replaced. Many eyelash curlers come with a set of replacement pads. Keep a set on hand.
Makeup Care
Examine the contents of your makeup bag, drawer, or cabinet. Take out anything that's in a broken container or missing a cap. You can pour liquid foundation into a fresh bottle, scoop out creams and lipsticks and transfer them to small containers or palettes, and place capless pencils in zip-top plastic bags. Broken powder blushes and pressed powder compacts are irreparable and should be tossed. Weekly maintenance is far easier than semi-annual overhauls.
Brush Care
A good set of brushes will last several years if it is well cared for. This involves storing the brushes properly (either in a neat brush roll that has individual slots for each brush or upright in a pencil cup) and keeping them clean. To clean brushes, take a drop of brush cleaner or very gentle soap in your palm, wet the brush, and swirl the bristles around on your palm until they are covered in soap. (I love using baby shampoo.) Rinse thoroughly until all soap residue is gone. Do not immerse the brush head in water, because the hair is glued to the base, and even the most expensive brushes will come apart. Squeeze out excess moisture with a clean towel, reshape the brush head, and let it dry with the bristles hanging off the edge of a counter so the bristles dry into the perfect shape. Brushes can become mildewed if they rest on a towel while drying.
Clean all your brushes every month. For a quick cleaning in between washings, use a spray brush cleaner. Spritz it onto the bristles, and swipe them back and forth on a tissue until all
product residues are removed from the brush.
TIP
Clean the sides of messy compacts with a cotton swab to keep them looking fresh.
Sponge Care
High-quality sponges can be washed many times before they need to be discarded. Alternatively, you can buy disposable synthetic sponge wedges at the drugstore that work well and are inexpensive. You can wash and reuse them only a few times before you throw them out.
Powder Puff Care
While drugstores sell disposable powder puffs, it's worth investing in a better-quality one. Hand wash the puff using the same liquid soap you use for your brushes, or toss it into your next load of laundry or on the top rack of the dishwasher.
Tweezer Care
When tweezers get dull - which happens with repeated use - they are no longer as effective at grabbing on to and removing small hairs. You can take them to a knife shop for sharpening. Some of the better brands, such as Tweezerman, come with a lifetime guarantee that includes free sharpening whenever necessary.
Eyelash Curler Care
The rubber pads that line the inside of an eyelash curler are there to protect the lashes, so when the pads start to wear out or break apart, they must be replaced. Many eyelash curlers come with a set of replacement pads. Keep a set on hand.
Makeup Care
Examine the contents of your makeup bag, drawer, or cabinet. Take out anything that's in a broken container or missing a cap. You can pour liquid foundation into a fresh bottle, scoop out creams and lipsticks and transfer them to small containers or palettes, and place capless pencils in zip-top plastic bags. Broken powder blushes and pressed powder compacts are irreparable and should be tossed. Weekly maintenance is far easier than semi-annual overhauls.
Monday, August 10, 2009
Essential Tools
Brushes make all the difference in makeup application. Everyone from the most skilled makeup artist to the woman who wears only the bsics can benefit from using the right tools. Consider investing in at least a few key brushes. High-quality blush, eye shadow, eyebrow, and eyeliner brushes are basic. Good brushes are not hard to find. Look at those make by makekup artists' lines as well as less expensive versions available at beaurty and art supply stores. To find out which brushes you need and which ones are good quality, familiarize yourself with a variety of styles, shapes, and bristle types.
Assessing Brush Quality
Before purchasing brushes, you have to know what you are looking for and which brushes are worth-while investments. Assess the quality of a brush by testing the way the bristles feel against the skin and by running your fingers through the bristles to make sure that they don't shed. It's important to test how a brush feels when you hold it in your hand. It needs to feel comfortable and easy to maneuver.
Tips
Brush Size
The brushes that come with most makeup compacts are too small and narrow for proper blush application. Toss them and use a brush designed specifically for that purpose instead.
Natural Bristles
Natural bristles (such as squirrel, goat, pony, or sable) are very soft and offer a more blended, natural application. They're best for working with powder-based products-blush powder, and eye shadow.
Synthetic Bristles
Synthetic bristles are the best choice for brushes that will be used with creamy products, such as concealer, gel liners, and lip colours. They are generally stiffer than natural hair, so they give you greater control and more precise application.
Assessing Brush Quality
Before purchasing brushes, you have to know what you are looking for and which brushes are worth-while investments. Assess the quality of a brush by testing the way the bristles feel against the skin and by running your fingers through the bristles to make sure that they don't shed. It's important to test how a brush feels when you hold it in your hand. It needs to feel comfortable and easy to maneuver.
Tips
Brush Size
The brushes that come with most makeup compacts are too small and narrow for proper blush application. Toss them and use a brush designed specifically for that purpose instead.
Natural Bristles
Natural bristles (such as squirrel, goat, pony, or sable) are very soft and offer a more blended, natural application. They're best for working with powder-based products-blush powder, and eye shadow.
Synthetic Bristles
Synthetic bristles are the best choice for brushes that will be used with creamy products, such as concealer, gel liners, and lip colours. They are generally stiffer than natural hair, so they give you greater control and more precise application.
Saturday, August 8, 2009
Buxom Insider Eyeliner
I bought this in Onyx.
What it is:
A velvety liner for the lash line and inner rim of eyes.
What it does:
Buxom Insider Eyeliner delivers rich, long-wearing color that's so gentle you can apply it to the inner rims of your eyes for the deepest, most dramatic definition. The silky, emollient formula contains a healthy blend of antioxidants and vitamins to protect the delicate skin along your lash line from environmental damage. It can also be applied along the outer lash line for the maximum effect and glides on without tugging or irritating your eyes.
What this product is formulated WITHOUT:
- Parabens
- Sulfates
- Synthetic Fragrances
- Phthalates
What else you need to know:
Each eyeliner comes with a built-in sharpener!
Buxom Lashliner Brush
This is actually very convenient to have in your emergency kit for those quick touch-ups.
What it is:
A lash-lovin' tool that puts you in control.
What it does:
From the moment it meets your lash base, the ultrafine, tapered point of this sexy, silver Lashliner Brush delivers a graphically precise line of Buxom Lashliner that gives your eyes a heavy dose of drama. Applying Buxom Lashliner with this easy-to-use tool enables your lashes to reach their full buxom potential, starting from the roots. Dip into Buxom Lashliner and apply along roots of lashes for instant conditioning benefits, lash enhancement, and long-term nourishing effects for lusciously longer, fuller-looking lashes
What else you need to know:
Housed in a sleek, sexy, and shiny-soft case.
Buxom Lashliner
I'm a sucker for eyeliner so I decided to try this. It boasts to thicken your lashes. I haven't seen results yet but I need to religiously use it for at least a month. It is a very creamy formula tho.
What it is:
A lash line enhancing and conditioning treatment.
What it does:
Lash addicts beware: Buxom Lashliner is highly habit-forming. This may look like just a liner, but it's also a thickening and conditioning treatment that instantly takes the appearance of your lashes from hardly any to very many. This mineral-rich, paraben-free, whipped gel formula glides on like a liquid liner and dries to a long-wearing smudge proof eyeliner. The formula is made with natural ingredients, including vitamins A, C, and E; Honeysuckle; Jojoba Oil; Soy Protein; Tourmaline; and Biotin (vitamin B), which support healthy lashes. In one fluid stroke, you can fill in the base of your lashes—making them appear lusciously longer and fuller. This product is ophthalmologist tested and safe for contact lens wearers. The result: Healthy, lust-worthy lashes that have no limits.
What this product is formulated WITHOUT:
- Parabens
- Sulfates
- Synthetic Fragrances
- Synthetic Dyes
- Phthalates
Buxom Big & Healthy Lip Stick
I bought this in the Milan colour.
What it is:
A three-in-one lip perfector that works hard for the money.
What it does:
Buxom Big & Healthy Lip Stick works three full-time jobs—it defines the shape of lips like a liner, fills them in with creamy velvet color, and then plumps them to their full buxom potential. It's a three-in-one lipstick that's quick and convenient for defined, colorful, buxom lips anytime, anywhere.
What this product is formulated WITHOUT:
- Parabens
- Sulfates
- Phthalates
What else you need to know:
The formula contains a deep infusion of antioxidant vitamins A, C, and E for soft, smooth lips. It also comes with a built-in sharpener.
Friday, August 7, 2009
Purchasing Dos and Don'ts
Do buy multipurpose makeup, such as lip-cheek combinations.
Do shop in daylight for foundation.
Don't equate "dermatologist tested" with better quality. The claim does not guarantee that the doctor approved of the product - just that it was tested.
Do save your receipts. Many stores will refund your money within a specified period of time if you are not satisfied with a product. If any cream-based makeup smells or has an odd texture, take it back. It is probably old.
Don't toss leftovers unless the makeup is more than eighteen months old. When that lipstick or cream blush gets near the end, scoop the remainder into small, covered, compartmentalized boxes (palettes) that are available at art and beauty supply stores. Label the back of the palette with the colour name for reference when you need to restock.
Do shop in daylight for foundation.
Don't equate "dermatologist tested" with better quality. The claim does not guarantee that the doctor approved of the product - just that it was tested.
Do save your receipts. Many stores will refund your money within a specified period of time if you are not satisfied with a product. If any cream-based makeup smells or has an odd texture, take it back. It is probably old.
Don't toss leftovers unless the makeup is more than eighteen months old. When that lipstick or cream blush gets near the end, scoop the remainder into small, covered, compartmentalized boxes (palettes) that are available at art and beauty supply stores. Label the back of the palette with the colour name for reference when you need to restock.
Shopping for Supplies
Whether you are starting your first professional makeup kit, replacing a few personal items, or looking for something new, shopping is a time to experiment, test cosmetics, and research trends. One of the best and easiest ways to stay current is to test the latest products on the cosmetics floor of any large department store. The makeup artist at the counter will show you new items and techniques. You can try the cosmetics and get information, all without any cost. Magazines and the Internet are great for research and information, but when you are ready for a purchase, it is important to touch ad feel the products so you know the quality you are getting.
It is a good idea to develop some shopping strategies to avoid frustration, intimidation, or impulse-buying. First, determine your budget. Makeup can be expensive. Estimate the cost of your supply needs, and add a realistic amount for trying new products. Making an inventory list of all the supplies in your makeup kit is very helpful. Use this as a shopping list, and just circle the needed items. If you want to replace something specific, you can take the container with you to the store. In a notebook, keep a page for jotting down any new products you might want to test. This is also a place to record product ingredients for comparison shopping. For the best service, shop when the stores are least crowded, generally in the mornings, early in the week. Let the makeup artist at the counter show you a new look or technique. Listen and ask questions. Be clear about your likes and dislikes. Ask for samples or trial-size containers of any products you like. Purchase a product only if you love the way the makeup looks and know that you will use it.
Sources
Your will want to find several places to purchase makeup supplies that suit your needs and preferences. For testing and experimentation, store visits are very useful. Once you are familiar with a product line, it is faster and easier to do your shopping online. Most of the retailers and designers now have websites for quick and convenient shopping.
Department Stores
High-end brands are typically sold through dedicated counter areas in department stores. Most of the counter personnel are trained in makeup application and are able to provide information and advice. You can test the makeup before purchasing so you know exactly what you're getting. Some sales staff are paid on commission, so you may be pressured to make a purchase.
Drugstores and Pharmacies
These stores are convenient and carry a wide variety of mass-market products. Purchase basic supplies such as nail polish, cotton balls, makeup sponges, and cotton swabs at these retailers. Very few of the products can be tested before buying so purchases might not meet your expectations.
Beauty Supply Shops
Makeup artists depend on these industry meccas for professional-quality products at budget-friendly prices. You will receive personalized attention and won't be rushed or pressured to make a purchase, because sales clerks are not paid on commission. These stores will usually ship anywhere in the country.
Beauty Superstores
One-stop shops, such as Sephora and Ulta, offer a wide range of mass-market, prestige, and niche products. The staff is knowledgeable and willing to answer questions.
Specialty Stores
These freestanding stores offer a wide selection of products, often "indie" brands. This is a good place to find trend-driven shades, foundations, and concealers.
Catalogs
Shopping from catalogs specific to a brand is a convenient way to stock up on favourite shades of cosmetics. Once you are familiar with a product, this is a fast and easy way to order replacements, get a quick overview of new products, and see the latest fashion colours.
Discontinued?!?
This happens for a number of reasons. It is possible that the product was not selling well, or it has been reformulated to meet new standards. Discontinued beauty products are available if you know where to look. Use the internet to do your research. Visit the company's website first. There will generally be information available on discontinued products. Estee Lauder, for example, publishes item closings in advance on their website so that consumers can stock up. Specialty websites, outlets, and online auctions often carry these cosmetics and fragrances. Do be aware of expiration dates.
Finally, if you just can't locate your old favourite, e-mail or write a personal letter asking the company to bring it back. Companies listen closely to their customers, and it is not unusual for specific colours or products to be resurrected thanks to consumer demand. At the very least, you will get a response from the company, usually providing reasons for the closing and often samples opf similar products for you to try.
It is a good idea to develop some shopping strategies to avoid frustration, intimidation, or impulse-buying. First, determine your budget. Makeup can be expensive. Estimate the cost of your supply needs, and add a realistic amount for trying new products. Making an inventory list of all the supplies in your makeup kit is very helpful. Use this as a shopping list, and just circle the needed items. If you want to replace something specific, you can take the container with you to the store. In a notebook, keep a page for jotting down any new products you might want to test. This is also a place to record product ingredients for comparison shopping. For the best service, shop when the stores are least crowded, generally in the mornings, early in the week. Let the makeup artist at the counter show you a new look or technique. Listen and ask questions. Be clear about your likes and dislikes. Ask for samples or trial-size containers of any products you like. Purchase a product only if you love the way the makeup looks and know that you will use it.
Sources
Your will want to find several places to purchase makeup supplies that suit your needs and preferences. For testing and experimentation, store visits are very useful. Once you are familiar with a product line, it is faster and easier to do your shopping online. Most of the retailers and designers now have websites for quick and convenient shopping.
Department Stores
High-end brands are typically sold through dedicated counter areas in department stores. Most of the counter personnel are trained in makeup application and are able to provide information and advice. You can test the makeup before purchasing so you know exactly what you're getting. Some sales staff are paid on commission, so you may be pressured to make a purchase.
Drugstores and Pharmacies
These stores are convenient and carry a wide variety of mass-market products. Purchase basic supplies such as nail polish, cotton balls, makeup sponges, and cotton swabs at these retailers. Very few of the products can be tested before buying so purchases might not meet your expectations.
Beauty Supply Shops
Makeup artists depend on these industry meccas for professional-quality products at budget-friendly prices. You will receive personalized attention and won't be rushed or pressured to make a purchase, because sales clerks are not paid on commission. These stores will usually ship anywhere in the country.
Beauty Superstores
One-stop shops, such as Sephora and Ulta, offer a wide range of mass-market, prestige, and niche products. The staff is knowledgeable and willing to answer questions.
Specialty Stores
These freestanding stores offer a wide selection of products, often "indie" brands. This is a good place to find trend-driven shades, foundations, and concealers.
Catalogs
Shopping from catalogs specific to a brand is a convenient way to stock up on favourite shades of cosmetics. Once you are familiar with a product, this is a fast and easy way to order replacements, get a quick overview of new products, and see the latest fashion colours.
Discontinued?!?
This happens for a number of reasons. It is possible that the product was not selling well, or it has been reformulated to meet new standards. Discontinued beauty products are available if you know where to look. Use the internet to do your research. Visit the company's website first. There will generally be information available on discontinued products. Estee Lauder, for example, publishes item closings in advance on their website so that consumers can stock up. Specialty websites, outlets, and online auctions often carry these cosmetics and fragrances. Do be aware of expiration dates.
Finally, if you just can't locate your old favourite, e-mail or write a personal letter asking the company to bring it back. Companies listen closely to their customers, and it is not unusual for specific colours or products to be resurrected thanks to consumer demand. At the very least, you will get a response from the company, usually providing reasons for the closing and often samples opf similar products for you to try.
Thursday, August 6, 2009
Tool Guide
This alphabetized glossary describes the different types of brushes as well as other tools you might want to keep in your kit. It will help you decide what brushes work best for a specific need or technique.
BLUSH BRUSH
This needs to be wide enough to cover the apple of the cheek. The bristles should be soft, natural hair with beveled and curved edges.
BRONZER BRUSH
This is thicker and fuller than a blush brush and has a flat profile. It is designed for sweeping and pressing bronzer over cheeks, forehead, nose and chin to provide natural-looking warmth to the skin.
BROW BRUSH
A brush with stiff, short bristles cut on an angle. Designed for applying shadow to the brows. Look for a synthetic/natural blend of bristles, as the 100 percent synthetic brushes are too stiff and don't deposit colour as effectively.
BROW GROOMING BRUSH
This is for brushing brows into place. It has stiff bristles cut straight across, like a toothbrush.
EYELASH COMB
This has straight, stiff (often plastic), fine teeth and is designed to separate lashes immediately after applying mascara (while the lashes are still wet). Mascara wands work just as well and are more convenient.
CONCEALER BRUSH
This should have firm but soft bristles that aren't too hard or scratchy, since the brush will be used on the delicate skin under the eyes. Look for a brush with glossy synthetic hairs, as these slip along the skin. The ends of the bristles should be tapered to help you place concealer in hard-to-reach spots, such as the inner corners of the eyes, and apply stick foundation to cover any redness around the nose.
EYE BLENDER BRUSH
A soft, fluffy, natural-hair brush with long bristles designed to blend eye shadow and eliminate lines of demarcation on the lids after applying multiple shades. It is also great for applying powder to set corrector, concealer, or foundation around the eyes or over blemish cover.
EYE CONTOUR BRUSH
A round, flat-head, natural-hair brush. Short, dense bristles apply a greater amount of shadow in the crease to contour the eye.
EYE SHADER BRUSH
A wide, flat-head brush that can gently sweep eye shadow colour over the entire lid, from the lash line to the brow bone.
EYE SHADOW BRUSH
Wide enough to cover about half the eyelid. This brush has natural, soft, rounded bristles with beveled edges that deposit a sweep of shadow across the lower lid without leaving any harsh lines.
EYE SMUDGE BRUSH
A small-head brush with a slightly rounded point. This brush has soft, flexible bristles that help smudge liner to create a smoky look.
EYELASH CURLER
Look for a basic metal version with rubber pads. An eyelash curler shapes lashes into a natural-looking curl. Replace pads regularly. To avoid breakage, always curl the lashes before applying mascara.
EYELINER BRUSH (ANGLED) / EYE DEFINER BRUSH
This small brush has very short, dense bristles cut on an angle. It is designed to use with shadow to strengthen thin brows or as an alternative to an eyeliner brush.
EYELINER BRUSH (FLAT)
With flat, dense, synthetic bristles that are slightly rounded at tip, this brush can be used wet or dry to apply a precise line at the lash line.
EYELINER BRUSH (ULTRA FINE)
The bristles on this small brush are synthetic, dense, and curve to a point. Perfect for the precise application of liquid or gel eyeliner.
FACE BLENDER BRUSH
A natural or synthetic brush used to deposit shimmer, bronzer, powder, or blush
FACE BRUSH
A natural or synthetic fluffy, curved brush that can be used to apply bronzer, blush, or powder.
FOUNDATION BRUSH
Synthetic bristles in this full, flat-edged brush deposit just the right amount of foundation onto the skin.
LIP BRUSH
Firm, long bristles come to a slightly pointed tip. This brush allows for the precise placement of lip colour. Bristles can be either synthetic or natural.
POWDER BRUSH
A natural-hair, large, fluffy brush with soft bristles that bevel to a slight point (for navigating around the nose and under the eyes). Designed for use with both loose and pressed powders.
POWDER PUFF
A velour puff that's about the size of your palm. Designed to press powder onto the face to lock foundation in place. Can be hand washed or tossed in the dishwasher (at least once a week).
SPONGES
Disposable sponges are invaluable. Wedge-shaped ones are great for applying foundation around the nose and other hard-to-reach places, as well as for blending. Don't bother washing them - toss dirty ones, and take a new one. Higher quality sponges can be washed and reused many times.
TOUCH UP BRUSH
Short, firm, natural-bristled brush used with foundation for spot touch-ups and for hard-to reach areas around the nose and mouth. This brush can also be used to touch up concealer and apply eye shadow.
TWEEZERS
It's well worth investing in a good pair. Look at the Tweezerman or Rubis brands. Tweezers that are angled at the tip are easier t control than those that come to a sharp point. Always cover tweezers' tips with the included rubber cap when they are not in use.
BLUSH BRUSHThis needs to be wide enough to cover the apple of the cheek. The bristles should be soft, natural hair with beveled and curved edges.
BRONZER BRUSH
This is thicker and fuller than a blush brush and has a flat profile. It is designed for sweeping and pressing bronzer over cheeks, forehead, nose and chin to provide natural-looking warmth to the skin.
BROW BRUSH
A brush with stiff, short bristles cut on an angle. Designed for applying shadow to the brows. Look for a synthetic/natural blend of bristles, as the 100 percent synthetic brushes are too stiff and don't deposit colour as effectively.
BROW GROOMING BRUSHThis is for brushing brows into place. It has stiff bristles cut straight across, like a toothbrush.
EYELASH COMB
This has straight, stiff (often plastic), fine teeth and is designed to separate lashes immediately after applying mascara (while the lashes are still wet). Mascara wands work just as well and are more convenient.
CONCEALER BRUSH
This should have firm but soft bristles that aren't too hard or scratchy, since the brush will be used on the delicate skin under the eyes. Look for a brush with glossy synthetic hairs, as these slip along the skin. The ends of the bristles should be tapered to help you place concealer in hard-to-reach spots, such as the inner corners of the eyes, and apply stick foundation to cover any redness around the nose.
EYE BLENDER BRUSH
A soft, fluffy, natural-hair brush with long bristles designed to blend eye shadow and eliminate lines of demarcation on the lids after applying multiple shades. It is also great for applying powder to set corrector, concealer, or foundation around the eyes or over blemish cover.
EYE CONTOUR BRUSH
A round, flat-head, natural-hair brush. Short, dense bristles apply a greater amount of shadow in the crease to contour the eye.
EYE SHADER BRUSH
A wide, flat-head brush that can gently sweep eye shadow colour over the entire lid, from the lash line to the brow bone.
EYE SHADOW BRUSH
Wide enough to cover about half the eyelid. This brush has natural, soft, rounded bristles with beveled edges that deposit a sweep of shadow across the lower lid without leaving any harsh lines.
EYE SMUDGE BRUSH
A small-head brush with a slightly rounded point. This brush has soft, flexible bristles that help smudge liner to create a smoky look.
EYELASH CURLER
Look for a basic metal version with rubber pads. An eyelash curler shapes lashes into a natural-looking curl. Replace pads regularly. To avoid breakage, always curl the lashes before applying mascara.
EYELINER BRUSH (ANGLED) / EYE DEFINER BRUSH
This small brush has very short, dense bristles cut on an angle. It is designed to use with shadow to strengthen thin brows or as an alternative to an eyeliner brush.
EYELINER BRUSH (FLAT)
With flat, dense, synthetic bristles that are slightly rounded at tip, this brush can be used wet or dry to apply a precise line at the lash line.
EYELINER BRUSH (ULTRA FINE)
The bristles on this small brush are synthetic, dense, and curve to a point. Perfect for the precise application of liquid or gel eyeliner.
FACE BLENDER BRUSH
A natural or synthetic brush used to deposit shimmer, bronzer, powder, or blush
FACE BRUSH
A natural or synthetic fluffy, curved brush that can be used to apply bronzer, blush, or powder.
FOUNDATION BRUSH
Synthetic bristles in this full, flat-edged brush deposit just the right amount of foundation onto the skin.
LIP BRUSH
Firm, long bristles come to a slightly pointed tip. This brush allows for the precise placement of lip colour. Bristles can be either synthetic or natural.
POWDER BRUSH
A natural-hair, large, fluffy brush with soft bristles that bevel to a slight point (for navigating around the nose and under the eyes). Designed for use with both loose and pressed powders.
POWDER PUFF
A velour puff that's about the size of your palm. Designed to press powder onto the face to lock foundation in place. Can be hand washed or tossed in the dishwasher (at least once a week).
SPONGES
Disposable sponges are invaluable. Wedge-shaped ones are great for applying foundation around the nose and other hard-to-reach places, as well as for blending. Don't bother washing them - toss dirty ones, and take a new one. Higher quality sponges can be washed and reused many times.
TOUCH UP BRUSH
Short, firm, natural-bristled brush used with foundation for spot touch-ups and for hard-to reach areas around the nose and mouth. This brush can also be used to touch up concealer and apply eye shadow.
TWEEZERS
It's well worth investing in a good pair. Look at the Tweezerman or Rubis brands. Tweezers that are angled at the tip are easier t control than those that come to a sharp point. Always cover tweezers' tips with the included rubber cap when they are not in use.
Makeup Kits
Home Makeup
Tip
Collect deluxe samples from makeup counters - they are perfect for travel
- Concealers and correctors
- Foundation or tinted moisturizer
- Powder (two colours)
- Eye shadow (three to four basic colours)
- Eyeliner (powder and gel)
- Mascara
- Blush (powder or cream)
- Lipstick, gloss, lip pencil
- One or two palettes that contain your foundation, concealer, blush, and lip colour
- A compact of pressed powder with a mirror
- A basic eye palette - the smaller the better
- Mini mascara
- Lip gloss
- Mini brushes
- Small sample size of face cream
- Lipstick or gloss
- Lip pencil
- A powder compact
- Customizable face palette (containing concealer, foundation, blush)
- Mini perfume
- Breath mints
- Concealer
- Foundation
- Pressed powder (with mirror)
- Blush
- Lip balm, lip colour, and/or gloss
- Black eyeliner and white or silver eye shadow to create an evening eye
- Mini brushes
- Travel toothbrush and toothpaste set
- Face-cleansing cloths
- Moisturizer
- Customized face palette, or at least a tinted moisturizer, lip colour or gloss, and mascara
- Travel-size shampoo and conditioner
- Body and facial moisturizers
- Makeup palettes with all your basics
- Mini Mascara
- Face powder, bronzer (great for the travel weary)
- Self-tanner
- Lipstick or gloss
- A brush roll of travel-size brushes
- Tweezers
- Hairbrush and hair spray
- Perfume in a mini or compact version
- Perfumed body creams are also great
Tip
Collect deluxe samples from makeup counters - they are perfect for travel
Monday, August 3, 2009
Tricks of the Trade
A makeup artist's hands are his/her most precious tool. Use hands to warm concealers, blend foundation, or mix two lip shades. You can also use your hands to work makeup into your face so that the makeup feels like a part of the face and not like a mask. Your face should never feel "untouchable" even when it is fully made-up. The more comfortable you become using your hands on your face, the more natural your makeup will look.
Sunday, August 2, 2009
How To Wash Brushes
To clean makeup brushes, use a mild household liquid soap (baby shampoo and Ivory soap work well). Use your hand as a cup for the warm, soapy water and swirl brushes in your palm until they are clean. Rinse well. Then gently squeeze excess water from the brush. Reshape the head of the brush. Air-dry by laying the brush over the edge of a counter or table so that the bristles are open to the air on all sides. Brushes should dry overnight.
There is absolutely no need to buy a special makeup brush cleaning solution. Most solutions specifically made for this purpose are too harsh and drying for the bristles. I've found that some of these solutions have an odd odour. Rubbing alcohol is not a good option either.
Do not soak brushes in the sink. Extended immersion in water can loosen the glue that holds the bristles in place, so brushes come apart prematurely. To avoid mildew from forming, do not wrap your brushes in, or lay them on, a towel to dry.
There is absolutely no need to buy a special makeup brush cleaning solution. Most solutions specifically made for this purpose are too harsh and drying for the bristles. I've found that some of these solutions have an odd odour. Rubbing alcohol is not a good option either.
Do not soak brushes in the sink. Extended immersion in water can loosen the glue that holds the bristles in place, so brushes come apart prematurely. To avoid mildew from forming, do not wrap your brushes in, or lay them on, a towel to dry.
Saturday, August 1, 2009
Makeup Organization
Full-Disclosure Makeup Analysis
This may sound like a painful exercise, but it's guaranteed to simplify your makeup wardrobe. It will also keep you from spending money on things you already own or repeating the common mistake of buying products that you never use.
Gather up all the makeup products - your essentials from the bathroom cabinet or vaity table, your ancillary items stuck in various tote bags and pocketbooks, coat and jacket pockets, and from the glove compartment. Dump everything together and arrange like products together.
One of the most objective ways of clearing excess products out of your life is to toss anything that's been open to the air too long to still be safe, clean, or effective. Below are some rule-of-thumb life spans for products once they've been opened.
This may sound like a painful exercise, but it's guaranteed to simplify your makeup wardrobe. It will also keep you from spending money on things you already own or repeating the common mistake of buying products that you never use.
Gather up all the makeup products - your essentials from the bathroom cabinet or vaity table, your ancillary items stuck in various tote bags and pocketbooks, coat and jacket pockets, and from the glove compartment. Dump everything together and arrange like products together.
- Toss anything that you've had for two years or longer.
- Smell everything. Toss anything that has a funny or musty odour.
- Toss anything that's chipped, messy, or runny.
- Throw out brushes that are falling apart and puffs and sponges that are dirty or falling apart.
- Check to see if any liquids have separated. If so, dispose of them.
- Throw out anything that you have not touched in the past six months - even that perfect red lipstick you've been saving. If you haven't found an occasion to wear it now, you probably won't ever.
- Edit out any colours that are just plain ugly or garish.
- Throw out any colours that are pasty or dull-looking - shades that don't do anything for your skin tone.
- Weed out makeup that has a strong shimmer or frost.
One of the most objective ways of clearing excess products out of your life is to toss anything that's been open to the air too long to still be safe, clean, or effective. Below are some rule-of-thumb life spans for products once they've been opened.
- Cream cleanser: 1 year
- Face Cream / moisturizer: 2 years
- Eye Cream: 6 months
- Foundation, oil-based: 2 years
- Foundation, water-based: 1.5 year
- Concealer: 2 years
- Gel cleanser: 1 year
- Lipstick: 1.5 to 2 years
- Mascara: 6 months
- Eyeliner: 2 years, but sharpen pencils frequently
- Lip Pencil: 2 years, but sharpen pencils frequently
- Liquid eyeliner: 6 months
- Powder: 2 years
- Cream blush/bronzer: 2 year
- Powder Blush: 2 years
- Eye Shadows: 2 years
- Sunscreen: 2 years
- Brushes wash every 2-3 months
- Sponges wash weekly and discard monthly
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