Thursday, August 6, 2009

Makeup Kits

Home Makeup
  • Concealers and correctors
  • Foundation or tinted moisturizer
  • Powder (two colours)
  • Eye shadow (three to four basic colours)
  • Eyeliner (powder and gel)
  • Mascara
  • Blush (powder or cream)
  • Lipstick, gloss, lip pencil
Everyday Bag
  • One or two palettes that contain your foundation, concealer, blush, and lip colour
  • A compact of pressed powder with a mirror
  • A basic eye palette - the smaller the better
  • Mini mascara
  • Lip gloss
  • Mini brushes
  • Small sample size of face cream
Evening Bag
  • Lipstick or gloss
  • Lip pencil
  • A powder compact
  • Customizable face palette (containing concealer, foundation, blush)
  • Mini perfume
  • Breath mints
In Your Desk Drawer
  • Concealer
  • Foundation
  • Pressed powder (with mirror)
  • Blush
  • Lip balm, lip colour, and/or gloss
  • Black eyeliner and white or silver eye shadow to create an evening eye
  • Mini brushes
  • Travel toothbrush and toothpaste set
In Your Gym Bag
  • Face-cleansing cloths
  • Moisturizer
  • Customized face palette, or at least a tinted moisturizer, lip colour or gloss, and mascara
For Travel
  • Travel-size shampoo and conditioner
  • Body and facial moisturizers
  • Makeup palettes with all your basics
  • Mini Mascara
  • Face powder, bronzer (great for the travel weary)
  • Self-tanner
  • Lipstick or gloss
  • A brush roll of travel-size brushes
  • Tweezers
  • Hairbrush and hair spray
  • Perfume in a mini or compact version
  • Perfumed body creams are also great

Tip
Collect deluxe samples from makeup counters - they are perfect for travel

Monday, August 3, 2009

Tricks of the Trade

A makeup artist's hands are his/her most precious tool. Use hands to warm concealers, blend foundation, or mix two lip shades. You can also use your hands to work makeup into your face so that the makeup feels like a part of the face and not like a mask. Your face should never feel "untouchable" even when it is fully made-up. The more comfortable you become using your hands on your face, the more natural your makeup will look.

Sunday, August 2, 2009

How To Wash Brushes

To clean makeup brushes, use a mild household liquid soap (baby shampoo and Ivory soap work well). Use your hand as a cup for the warm, soapy water and swirl brushes in your palm until they are clean. Rinse well. Then gently squeeze excess water from the brush. Reshape the head of the brush. Air-dry by laying the brush over the edge of a counter or table so that the bristles are open to the air on all sides. Brushes should dry overnight.

There is absolutely no need to buy a special makeup brush cleaning solution. Most solutions specifically made for this purpose are too harsh and drying for the bristles. I've found that some of these solutions have an odd odour. Rubbing alcohol is not a good option either.

Do not soak brushes in the sink. Extended immersion in water can loosen the glue that holds the bristles in place, so brushes come apart prematurely. To avoid mildew from forming, do not wrap your brushes in, or lay them on, a towel to dry.

Saturday, August 1, 2009

Makeup Organization

Full-Disclosure Makeup Analysis

This may sound like a painful exercise, but it's guaranteed to simplify your makeup wardrobe. It will also keep you from spending money on things you already own or repeating the common mistake of buying products that you never use.

Gather up all the makeup products - your essentials from the bathroom cabinet or vaity table, your ancillary items stuck in various tote bags and pocketbooks, coat and jacket pockets, and from the glove compartment. Dump everything together and arrange like products together.

  • Toss anything that you've had for two years or longer.
  • Smell everything. Toss anything that has a funny or musty odour.
  • Toss anything that's chipped, messy, or runny.
  • Throw out brushes that are falling apart and puffs and sponges that are dirty or falling apart.
  • Check to see if any liquids have separated. If so, dispose of them.
  • Throw out anything that you have not touched in the past six months - even that perfect red lipstick you've been saving. If you haven't found an occasion to wear it now, you probably won't ever.
  • Edit out any colours that are just plain ugly or garish.
  • Throw out any colours that are pasty or dull-looking - shades that don't do anything for your skin tone.
  • Weed out makeup that has a strong shimmer or frost.
Expiration Dates

One of the most objective ways of clearing excess products out of your life is to toss anything that's been open to the air too long to still be safe, clean, or effective. Below are some rule-of-thumb life spans for products once they've been opened.

  • Cream cleanser: 1 year
  • Face Cream / moisturizer: 2 years
  • Eye Cream: 6 months
  • Foundation, oil-based: 2 years
  • Foundation, water-based: 1.5 year
  • Concealer: 2 years
  • Gel cleanser: 1 year
  • Lipstick: 1.5 to 2 years
  • Mascara: 6 months
  • Eyeliner: 2 years, but sharpen pencils frequently
  • Lip Pencil: 2 years, but sharpen pencils frequently
  • Liquid eyeliner: 6 months
  • Powder: 2 years
  • Cream blush/bronzer: 2 year
  • Powder Blush: 2 years
  • Eye Shadows: 2 years
  • Sunscreen: 2 years
  • Brushes wash every 2-3 months
  • Sponges wash weekly and discard monthly

Wednesday, July 29, 2009

Hooded Eyes

Hooded eyes can look enchantingly exotic. Increase your mysteriousness by applying a soft blend of shadows.

  1. Start by applying highlight shadow under the brow and on the inside corners of the eyes.
  2. Next, sweep a midtone shadow across the lid, from the lash line to slightly above the crease. The best way to find the crease is to gently push the eye shadow brush into the lid; your crease is where you feel toe top of the eyeball.
  3. Next, line the upper lashes with a dark, waterproof liner.
  4. Finish with waterproof or tube technology (smudge-resisting) mascara on only the top lashes.

Tuesday, July 28, 2009

Makeup for Asians

Asian women are among the most naturally beautiful in the world. They usually have full lips and skin that never seems to age. Asian complexions looks best when colour is brought to the cheeks and eyes are defined.

Highlight
Pale pink shimmer looks gorgeous and makes the most of your naturally beautiful skin.

Eyes
Choose colours in shades of tawny pinks, shimmering taupes and browns, burgundy, vanilla, emerald green, granite, silvery plums, and deep purples.

Fast Fixes
Asian eyelashes tend to point downward, but if you curl them, you'll create an eye-opening effect. For best results, don't use a conventional lash curler that crimps your entire upper lashline at once. Instead, use a small, half-inch (or so) curler. It better allows you to follow your natural lash-line curve for beautiful results. Afterward, apply waterproof mascara, which will hold your curl longer than regular mascara.

Cheeks
Wear pinks, berries, plums, and roses.

Fast Fixes
Save time by turning a cream blush into a two-in-one product. Blend the cream blush on the apples of your cheeks then dab the same colour onto your lips for a quick natural look.

Lips
Opt for pinks, like raspberry, roses, golden pink shimmers, pinky browns, mauves, deep plum stains, shimmering beiges, and nudes.

Saturday, July 25, 2009

Four Steps to Perfect Brows

EYEBROW SHAPE & DEFINITION
You have seen what a difference a great frame can make to a painting. It is the eyebrows that form a frame for your eyes. Beautifully groomed eyebrows make a huge difference. It is possible to transform a face with just tweezers, shadow, a brow brush, and brow gel. A professional will help you find your ideal shape. Once the brows have been groomed, it is easy to do your own upkeep.

All brows benefit from added definition. Brow brushes and combs quickly tame and shape the brow hair. Brow shapers define, control, and shape the brows quickly and easily while adding just a bit of colour.

Brow-Grooming Supplies
  • Brow brush
  • Brow pencil
  • Clear brow gel
  • Tinted brow gel
  • Brow shadow
  • Tweezers
  • Baby scissors for trimming extra-long or curly hair.
How to Shape Brows
The start of the brow should follow and imaginary line drawn from the outside of the nose to the inside corner of the eye.

Step 1: Trim any wild hairs
Brush brows straight up. With manicure scissors (curved or straight - what matters are the tiny, snippy tips), trim any extra-long brow hairs that that poke out of line.
Note: If you're Asian, your brows may naturally fall downward. If that's the case, brush brows down and trim any hairs that fall below the natural shape, then brush them back up into place.

Step 2: Find your starting point
Rest a brow brush along the edge of your nose horizontally. One end should touch a nostril and the other should pass right over your forehead. Where the brow brush crosses your brow is where your brow line should start. Map out your other brow the same way, and pluck strays in the unibrow section that falls between these starting points.

Step 3: Map out your arch
Starting by the edge of your lips, angle the brow brush diagonally so it passes right over the over edge of your iris, the coloured part of your eye. Where the brush crosses the brow is where your arch should be. Some women have a pointed arch; others have arches that are just slightly cruved. Pluck any stays under this area so your natural arch is defined.

Step 4: Find your endpoint
Again, shift your brow brush so it lays against your nostril and angle it back to the outer corner of your eye. This is where the endpoint of your brow should be. Nix strays that fall outside or below this area for a clean taper from arch to end. In general, full, long brows look more youthful and are easier to carry off than skinny brows.

To minimize pain when tweezing, pluck right after showering, when your hair follicles are more open. Your hair will slide out more easily.

Special Cases

Nonexistent brows
Brows damaged by overtweezing, age, or chemotherapy can be drawn in to look quite natural. Use a pencil the colour of original brows, and softly draw in the shape. Layer a complementary colour of powder shadow with a brow brush to fill in and soften.

Bare spots
Bare spots can be filled in with light strokes of pencil or with powder shadow. If neither works, try layering both.

Brows too far apart
Brows too far apart can be corrected by filling in missing brow areas with light pencil strokes. Balance the brows carefully. Layer powder shadow on top.

Tadpole brows
Tadpole brows can be reshaped with shadow. Fill them in to create a straight line.
  1. Choose the colour that matches your eyebrows and hair.
  2. For a natural option, use eyebrow mascara to create the look of a natural brow.
  3. For more definition, use powder shadow. Start at the inner corner of the brow. Make sure you fill in all the gaps in the brow hair.
  4. Bring the brush to the center, creating an arch, and then turn the brush and go down.
  5. Make sure the brow is long enough.
Asian Brows
Asian women often have sparse brows and need to fill in the brows to match a full head of hair.
  1. Begin at the inside of the brow.
  2. Fill in the brow using a shade that matches it. Use the powder to add density so it matches the hair on your head.
  3. Lightly stroke along the length of the brow.
  4. Continue all the way up the arch, turning the brush as it goes down.
  5. Make sure the brow is long enough.
  6. Use a clear eyebrow mascara to brush up an unruly brow.
Tweezing It's best to get a professional shaping to begin. It's easier for upkeep. Tweezing after the shower is less painful than at other times.

Tip

Some unruly brows will benefit from trimming long hairs with baby scissors.

Grooming Brows
To fill obvious holes or lengthen overplucked brows, use either pencil alone or a pencil-to-powder method. Using an eyebrow pencil in a shade that matches the brow colour, fill with a light, feathery stroke, mimicking the look of hair. If using a powdered eye shadow, choose one that closely matches the hair and brow colour. Using a stiff, flat, angled brow brush, pick up a small amount of colour, and tap off the excess. Lightly stroke the shadow from the inner corner of the brow along the entire length to fill it in. Stroke colour along the upper edge of the brow to accentuate the arch and give a "lift" to the eye area.

Apply shadow colour only to the hair of the brows.
Finish with a coat of clear brow gel to set and tame any unruly brow hairs.

Look at your brows. Does the shape and intensity of colour look natural and balance the face? A dusting of powder can soften the colour if needed. Use a brow shaper to tame unruly brow hairs.

The Perfect Brow
The start of the brow should be aligned with the inner corner of the eye. The arch is three-quarters of the way across the brow from there.


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